Vanua Levu & Taveuni
Counting our Peace Corps time in the 70’s, this trip makes the fourth time we have been to Fiji. And we plan on going back again in 2026. There are so many places and islands to visit in Fiji, that you could probably go there twenty times and never really duplicate. There are several hundred islands and most have a reasonably convenient way to get there. Sometimes you will have to take a ferry boat, and all the domestic flights are on prop planes and they weigh you before you get on the plane to know where to put you to balance out the ride, I suppose. I think the prop plane we rode on from Nadi to Savusavu on this trip was the one we rode on in 1978. Really, it was the same flight, could be the same plane. Looked familiar.
Contents
Useful sites specific to the Vanua Levu / Taveuni trip:
Useful sites for planning any trip to Fiji:
Key Travel Info
Popular Islands & Activities
Getting Around
Tips for Budget & Experience
* How to get from Savusavu to Taveuni by Ferry (If you do our itinerary, pay attention to this): The only thing I wasn’t clear about when planning this trip was how to get from Savusavu to Taveuni. The information in the I love Taveuni website was probably the most helpful, and the Fiji Pocket Guide was also a good source, but neither was 100% correct. The ferry we took was the Suncity Ferry, which runs twice daily, to include Sunday (the day we took it). Also, the times the ferry runs are subject to change, so you will want to call to make sure. Suncity Ferry: +679 935 1566.
When we were there, the bus ran stupidly early in the morning and then about 1:15pm. Jim talked to someone that said if you take the early morning bus, then you will be sitting around for a while at the ferry dock. So, we decided to take the afternoon bus. Again, call for the correct times.
We arrived at the bus station about 11:30 am in Savusavu, asked the locals where the bus would come to and they told us it was coming from Labasa and it would park “right here.” And they were right. When you see the bus (it is clearly marked with Suncity transit on the side), as quickly as possible, store your stuff in one of the luggage holders on the outside of the bus – you will get no help from the driver. Then, as quickly as possible, get in line at the bus door to get your ticket. Enter the bus, and the driver will take $25 per person and give you a ticket for both the bus and the ferry. Pretty good deal. Then, as quickly as possible, find a seat. Don’t be shy. The bus began its journey in Labasa so it was nearly full when we got on. We did not get to sit together but the ride is only about an hour (my “seat” was at the edge of a bench seat beside a huge guy, but he was kind enough to let me sit).
The bus ride is an experience in itself. When Marg and I were in Fiji during our Peace Corps years, the bus rides were faster than I would travel on the roads, bumpy, windy, sometimes a little frightening, and enjoyable. This ride is about the same – some things, I guess, never change.
Once there, yes, this is where the ferry docks. It might not look like it, but it is. Get you stuff off the bus (again, you get no help – you are a local now) and wait around with everyone else. Very soon, you will see the ferry coming. Get in line, show your ticket, find a seat, and enjoy the ride. The ride takes about ½ hour.
Map: Vanua Levu and Taveuni Island
October 12th and 13th (Days 1 and 2 – Travel, Flight reminiscent of 1978 to Savusavu, Savusavu, James Rentals, House of Bamboo, Planter’s Club): We left the house about 2:30 PM, no traffic problems and no troubles getting to LA except that the catering company did not bring the food! We got no pretzels on the flight and Jim and Pam didn't get their Turkey sans. In LA Rod and I got chicken sans at the Chicken Guy... very good but spendy. Our flight to Fiji took off about 1/2 hour late. All in all it was a good flight. I was sleeping very well when they woke us up! We arrived in Nadi a bit late... we had a pretty short connection for our flight to Savusavu, so we were nervous. However, we made it through Immigration and Customs in time. The flight to Savusavu was very similar to our flight 47 years ago... I think the plane was smaller! They did weigh our luggage and us again! We've got our seats changed... probably weight distribution! (There were some big people on our flight). Good flight over the bush of Viti Levu and the ocean. Unfortunately, only one of our bags made the flight! We were told they would come on a later flight... our car rental (James Rentals - directions) met us at the airport. Our car was not ready so we had a substitute. We did the paperwork (Rod did it) at their office then we were off to our place! We found our place (House of Bamboo – directions) fairly easily... only drove by at once! There are lots of stairs up to our villa! Luckily, Jen, the owner, has a helper (Cecil/Shel) To help. He is 19! It was about 11:30 AM when we got settled. I took a shower! Rod was upset about the luggage. We took a nap for about 1.5 hours. Then, off to town. We were supposed to switch cars at 2:00, so we headed into town to do some business. Rod went to get a SIM card for his phone, Jim and I exchanged some ilavo (money). Then to the grocery store and market. We got our car and came back to the villa. The last flight of the day came in at about 3:50. So we headed back to the airport, Rod & I. Jen was already there with our bags! Yay! She and Cecil delivered them to the villa. We went to dinner at the Planter's Club – directions. Local place, good food and good price! Then to bed!
October 14 (Day 3 – Snorkel Split Rock, Coral Sun, Island Grill): Up at about 5:45. Had breakfast: cereal, toast, papaya, bananas. Headed down to our beach at about 8:40 to swim and snorkel at split rock. The beach is beautiful! Easy entry. We swam up to split rock... really beautiful. Rod and I were out about 1.5 hours... Jim and Pam about 45 minutes. After warming up and drying off, we headed out towards the Coral Sun which used to be Kontiki where we did our Peace Corps training. This is also the direction to go for our swim and snorkel trip on Wednesday. It was a very interesting drive. There is relatively little development, which is good! Not even many villages. We found our launch spot for Tomorrow. On the way back, we stopped at the Coral Sun. It is really built up! They closed off the lagoon where we snorkeled in training period there are buries built out over the water! Had a rest, then went to dinner at the Island Grill. Great!
Rod’s Thoughts: The Island Grill was my favorite place to eat, at least in Savusavu and possibly the entire trip. There was a point where I thought it would be good to stay at The Coral Sun because we stayed there almost 50 years ago during our Peace Corps training. Then, it was called The Kontiki. I am so very happy we didn’t stay there. It was sad to see that the beautiful coral reef had been devastated and a fake lagoon had been constructed. It made me sad. Split Rock is a great place to snorkel. There isn’t an actual split rock, that I could determine, anyway. But the coral and seal life was wonderful, and possibly one of my top ten snorkeling sites of all time (at the time of this writing).
Pics and Videos
October 15 (Day 4 – Snorkel Natewa Bay, Christmas Tree Worms, Arun's Taste Of Hidden Paradise Restaurant): Woke up about the same time today. Of course we were asleep by 9:00! Savusavu really shuts down about 8:00 and we were tired. Had tea and breakfast. At 7:15 Rod, Pam, and I left for our snorkel trip in Natewa Bay. The largest Bay in the South Pacific! We were with Dr Jays tours. Our leader was Seva and his wife. Jim didn't go as he was feeling poorly... we drove right there since we found it yesterday! Got there early, so we waited for another couple to join us. Rod was able to share some crayons with Seva’s nephew and niece. Had a beautiful boat ride out to the Homecoming Reef. Our travel companions were Reggie and Christina from Suva and Japan and their dog Amy. This snorkel was amazing! So colorful and vibrant that it looked unreal. We drifted around the reef following Seva. We were out about an hour... We all got chilly. Next, we moved a bit (not far) and got back in. About 45 minutes. Beautiful again. There has been quite a bit of coral planted successfully! All owned by the mataqali. Back for a rest and shower! To Arun’s (Arun's Taste Of Hidden Paradise Restaurant - directions) for Curry. We ate on the deck. Delicious!
I forgot to say that on the way back today (in the boat) we ran out of gas! No worries tho…Seva had more!
Rod’s Thoughts: Natewa Bay snorkeling might be in the top five snorkeling I have done to date. As Marg said above, the colors were unreal, they were so plentiful and vibrant. This was also the first time I had ever seen Christmas Tree worms. Really cool! We used Dr. Jay’s tours. There is another tour company called Ocean Ventures that does snorkeling and diving tours. I don’t know if they do Natewa Bay or not, but they are the #1 ranked tour company on Vanua Levu. Why didn’t we use them? The couple that owns and runs the place were off getting married. I guess we can forgive them for that 😊.
A mataqali in Fiji is a landowning clan or sub-clan, which is a collective group of families that share a common ancestry and own land communally. These groups have collective decision-making rights over their land and its resources, and the mataqali is a fundamental unit within Fiji's traditional kinship and village structure.
Pics and Videos
October 16 (Day 5 – Jean Michel Cousteau Resort, Namena Marine Reserve and Grand Central Station, The Captain’s Cafe): We got up early today for our trip to Namena Marine Reserve with the Jean Michel Cousteau Resort. The resort is just down the road from us, so we walked. Left at 6:45. Rod and Jim both have colds ☹. Our boat was a bit bigger today. There were nine people in our group. It was a 50 minute boat ride out to the reef. We went fast and it was pretty bumpy. At the reef, the guides LED us around the inside. Not quite as vibrant as yesterday but amazing, nonetheless. More new fish! We were out about 45 minutes, then back to the boat to another reef. This was “Grand Central Station.” We swam on the right side of the reef in a very deep channel. Lots of fish! Some very large. Saw quite a few sharks. About another 45 minutes. The current was strong and pushed us along. We were chilly! On the way back the boat broke down! They called for another boat, but were eventually able to fix it. Back at the villa we rested and showered. Rod was feeling pretty poorly. We did take out again period from the Captain's Cafe this time period Pam and I went to get wine while rod waited in the car. Great food again!
Rod’s Thoughts: Sheesh! I seem to always get sick for a couple of days on our trips. Could be the flying, just getting old and tired, or whatever. But I have learned: All trips are at least 10 days so that if someone gets sick, then they still have some vacation time left after recovery (assuming the illness isn’t too bad).
Namena Marine Reserve was good, but as Marg said, it didn’t seem to be as vibrant as Natewa Bay. There were lots of fish at Grand Central Station. If I had to choose between Namena and Natewa for a second go, I would choose Natewa Bay.
We usually get a villa or other accommodation with a kitchen so we can make breakfast, lunch and especially dinner. But the food in the restaurants in both Savusavu and Taveuni was so inexpensive that we ate out every night of the trip. We found we really loved the curry meals and ordered some variation of curry more often than not.
Pics and Videos
October 17 (Day 6 – Sick day ☹, Split Rock Snorkel, The Grace Road Kitchen): Rod and Jim are both sick. So today was a rest day! We hung out at the villa and read. In the afternoon, Jim & Pam went to snorkel towards Split Rock. Rod was down for the count. I got in the pool. Rod & I went to town for takeout from The Grace Road Kitchen. Again, very good! Rained in the morning.
Rod’s Thoughts: Don’t get sick on vacation…yuck! When we went for takeout, we had to climb back up the stairs to the villa. Wow! I had to stop three times and thought my lungs would burst.
October 18 (Day 7 – Lambasa, Island Grill): Happy birthday to our Gina – 3 years old!
Did laundry this morning so it would dry while we were gone! Rod felt much better, so we drove to Labasa about an hour and a half drive. Very beautiful and mountainous! We got up pretty high! When we got to town, we doubled back to the airport to use the bathroom. Labasa was crowded! I think it may be partly because Diwali is Tuesday. We wandered through the market and bought some moli (oranges). Interestingly, most of the inside stalls were Indian and outside were Fijian. It is sugar cane harvest time, so we got stuck behind some cane trucks while driving. We saw no other Europeans! It was hot and crowded, so we decided to head back. Had cheese and crackers in the car on the way home. It was a very authentic cultural experience! But I don't think we need to go back. Back for a rest and shower. Rod and I went to get takeout and wine from the Island Grill. I ate my leftovers from Thursday. We have been calling in our takeout orders... really speeds things up!
Rod’s Thoughts: Labasa was very crowded, almost like a little Suva. But as Marg says, it might have been because of Diwali. The shops were crazy busy.
Diwali is the five-day Hindu festival of lights, also celebrated by other religions like Jainism and Sikhism, which symbolizes the triumph of good over evil and light over darkness. Celebrations include lighting oil lamps or diyas, decorating homes with colorful rangoli designs, feasting on sweets and food, and setting off fireworks.
October 19 (Day 8 – Suncity Bus to Buca Bay, Ferry Ride to Taveuni, Vale Sekoula, Dive Café): We left our villa just before 11:45 am. We awakened very early so a lot of sitting around time! Rod dropped us off at the bus depot and went to return the car. Sun City bus arrived as scheduled. There were already a lot of people on board. Very crowded. A very nice marama (older woman) bossed people around, so we all got seats. Rod was way in the back. $25 for both the bus and ferry. A typical bus ride to Buca Bay and ferry dock is about an hour. The fairy was very nice and cool! 45 to 50 minute boat ride. Samir met us at the dock and brought us to our new place. It is beautiful! 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, a pool, and a beautiful view. Vinna and her daughter Stephanie, who is 7 ½, met us and showed us around. By the time we got our bearings, it was time to go to dinner. We went to the Dive Cafe. We drove. The food took forever, but it was good! Jim didn't get what he ordered and the red wine was very sweet! On the way back it was very dark and we couldn't find our place! Had to Google it, even though it was pretty close! I took a shower, then went to bed.
October 20 (Day 9 – Bird watching with Varun, Satish Foodmart, Suncity Supermarket): We got up pretty early and had breakfast. Then we went shopping... walked up to Sun City. Usual supply run. They did not have booze, but we had walked past another store on our way (Satish Kumar Foodmart) That had a “liquor” sign, So stopped there on the way back. Wine, beer, gin, tonic. Jim and Pam’s potty wasn't working well so Robert the caretaker came to fix it. While he was working, Varun dropped by. He is the bird watching guide. We set up a tour for 10:30. He drove us in our truck. We went way up the mountain into the cloud forest. Very rainy! Saw birds but many were elusive. I got good views of parrots and a goshawk. We walked through the forest in the rain trying to find an orange dove. Got wet, muddy and cold... no dove ☹. We searched for the doves, but never found them. When we got back, we cleaned up and rested. At the store a man had been selling samosas (roti Curry) so I bought some. We had those for dinner. Varun is going to try to do another dove search before we go home.
Rod’s Thoughts: The bird watching, in my opinion, was a bust. It rained the entire time and I got cold. I guess I am getting old, or the birds just don’t interest me that much. But I would recommend Varun to anyone wanting to do birdwatching and is really into it. He is determined to find birds, even in heavy rain.
Have I said it before? Ilovetaveuni.com is a great website if you plan on visiting Taveuni.
October 21 (Day 10 – Diwali, Blow Holes, Snorkel House Reef, Coconut Grove Cafe): Diwali! This morning, we were off to the blow holes. We drove Southwest, down to the end of the road. An interesting and beautiful drive. Lots of rushing creeks to sea because of all the rain! We had a bit of trouble finding the blow holes. We even turned around... then saw a girl to ask where they were. When we got there some men had just finished cutting back some pandanus. They told us we were in the right place! Beautiful! Got good picks. Started to rain again, so we headed back. Had lunch and a rest period rod and I decided to snorkel off our little deck. We swam way out and found some corral. We had called in a takeout order to the Coconut Grove for 5:30. They called us a bit before that and said our food was ready and to bring 4 plates and a bowl! So we walked down with our plates and got our food. It was great!
Rod’s Thoughts: The house reef where we stayed was just sand and grass for the first 100 yards or more, but way, way out towards Honeymoon Island, we ran into some beautiful coral. Took some swimming to get there, but was worth the swim. We should have taken a float with us so that boats could see us. But in our defense, we didn’t know we were going to swim so far out. But if you do stay here and snorkel for the coral, you need a bright float so boats can see you.
October 22 (Day 11 – Rainbow Reef): Off to the rainbow reef at 8:00 this morning with Robert. Wow! What a fun trip! We had a nice ride out about 40 minutes. He dropped us in one spot and we swam around, then he towed us further out to a better spot. Amazing! So much coral, so many fish! It was a bit overcast. We were out for two hours! It started to rain just as we were finishing. The ride back was a bit bumpy. We rinsed off in the outdoor shower and pool. Rod and Jim went on a quest for more samosas. They were gone a long time but found a woman who made them in her little roadside stand. Pam and I had our leftovers from last night. After a rest, rod and I walked back to the liquor store! I think we will eat in tonight.
Rod’s Thoughts: The first place we stopped on the Rainbow Reef was, frankly, a little disappointing. There was a lot of dead and bleached coral. There were several patches of beautiful coral, so it was bad. But the spot Robert towed us to was truly amazing, and definitely one of the top five snorks I have done to date. As Marg said, tons of beautiful coral and thousands of fish. No large fish, but thousands of small, colorful fish.
I believe one would have a better experience diving. Then you can see the Great White Wall, and go deeper. The dive boats go to several places and I think you could spend a week just diving around the Rainbow Reef. But snorkeling is good as well. For me, next time I will dive.
October 23 (Day 12 – Waterfall Lavena Coastal Walk): Today we headed to the Bouma National Park for a hike. We headed out around 9:00 or so. Nice drive to the other end of taveuni. We drove past the visitor center at first, but asked directions right away. It is basically in the village. We planned to get a guide and hike the 8 miles out and bag but soon discovered other options. We were met by a guide who showed us where to park his name was Gabriel. Quite a salesman... so we decided on the three waterfall tour which included a boat ride! Before we left, rod handed out some crayons. We got in the boat and headed up the coast. Beautiful! Not too long a boat ride. We hiked up to the first waterfall... then back and on the main attraction on to the main attraction There is a nice area before heading to the falls. Covered table, changing room, vale Lailai (bathroom). I didn't put on my swimsuit, but I should have! We did have our water shoes. A nice hike through the Bush. At the falls, we put on our water shoes and swam up to the falls. Pretty strong current, but Gabriel helped us. He also swam with rode phone held out of the water! Really unique falls! See the pictures. Another nice hike through the Bush along the ocean to the visitor center. Walked through the village at the end. Unfortunately, Gabriel was very like others we have me from time to time, hitting us up for money 😊. But we did give him $100 for a tip...
Rod’s Thoughts: This was a good adventure. However, it really is very frustrating to be hit up for money, and much of the conversation being about how much our guide makes and how Australians don’t tip but Americans do. It took away a lot of the enjoyment. I still recommend you do this, but you might want to try to stop talk of money if it comes up.
October 24 (Day 13 – Snorkel Honeymoon Island, Somosomo City): This morning Robert picked us up to snorkel around the islands offshore. Honeymoon Island is one of them. At our first drop off spot the current was pretty strong, so Rod had trouble taking pics. Then, Robert towed us to another spot, then to Honeymoon Island! I think that was the best snorkeling. Several other people were there too. At one point (the middle swim) we couldn't find Robert, so Rod swam to land to stand up to look for him. Turned out he had another couple snorkeling too. They were staying with him and Vinna. They were from Germany, Kevin and Chantal. Taking an extended adventure in the South Pacific! Very nice people. Took showers and rested after our swim. Then we headed to Somosomo to go to the bank. We needed money to pay Samir for the car. Jim and I went into the bank while Rod and Pam hunted for roti curry for dinner! Success all around! Busy little town.
Rod’s Thoughts: The snorkeling around Honeymoon Island was gorgeous, with both hard and soft coral. We saw plenty of colorful fish. The coral is very healthy and I would go back to Taveuni to spend more time snorkeling around Honeymoon Island. This is probably one of the top 5 or so snorks I have done. We got many top snorks on this trip and it is hard to name the very best.
You can get cash in Somosomo at the bank there. You will want to have some cash and that is one of the only places you can get it on the island. Most restaurants take credit cards as do gas stations.
October 25 (Day 14 – International Dateline, Coconut Grove Lunch, Home): The longest day! Dateline, lunch at Coconut Grove, home. We had to pack up this morning. We took our suitcases over to the airport at 8:00 so that they would be sure to make it to Nadi! The desk people assured us that the bags would be on the 2:20 flight and would be waiting for us in Nadi. Then, we headed to the international date line! It is close to the fire station. Pretty cool. Got pictures. No one was coming to our house today, so Robert and vena said we could stay past checkout! We went to lunch at the Coconut Grove restaurant. I wasn't feeling well, but had spring rolls. (I think it was the altitude pill). The cleaning crew wanted to get started in the afternoon, but we got a little rest. Off to the airport at around 5:00. Our bags were gone... good sign! We had an uneventful flight back to Nadi. Our bags were waiting for us! We didn't have to wait long to check our baggage... then we hung out in the airport. Our flight was delayed about an hour. Took almost an hour to load! As good a flight as can be expected. Rod and I both slept. Reentry to the US was easy... just lines. More time hanging around in the airport. Got home at 11:01 PM! To bed!
Rod’s Thoughts: It took us over 24 hours to get home from when we left Taveuni to home in Portland. Ouch! The International Dateline is worth visiting. Save it for the last day so you have something to do while waiting for you plane if it is a late flight.
This was a great trip! We had wonderful weather (a bit of rain here and there, but that is to be expected in Fiji). The snorkeling was amazing! So many new fish and beautiful coral. The people were friendly and helpful. The food was good and inexpensive. We stayed in two beautiful villas with great views. We rented a car on Vanua Levu and drove ourselves around. The roads were pretty good, although narrow in places. Driving is on the left side of the road, which took a bit of getting used to. All in all, a great trip!
We would definitely go back to Fiji! There are so many other islands to explore. Next time we would like to visit Kadavu and the Mamanuca Islands. Maybe do some diving as well as snorkeling. There are also some other places on Vanua Levu and Taveuni that we didn't get to see.
Travel Tips
Thanks for reading our trip report! We hope it helps you plan your own adventure to Fiji!